I've started work on the first garment for the Queen of Margonia project, a pair of hand stitched drawers made from the pattern in the Italian Underpinnings package.
I don't usually hand stitch my garments, especially those that won't show in the final wearing, but I wanted a television watching project. The work is actually going faster than I expected, and is quite relaxing.
The fabric is a really nice smooth tightly woven linen, part of a set of curtains I found at a thrift store. I've already made my husband a shirt from it, so I only have a few pieces left. One of the pieces turned out to be exactly big enough to make the drawers.
I bought the gorgeous lace trim years ago, thinking I'd make a whisk collar and cuffs, but I decided to use it on this garment because having such extravagant undies will help me feel like a queen!
I'm sewing them with the usual treatment for body linens in the 16th century, a run and fell seam. This is the handworked version of a flat fell seam, the same seam that runs along the outside leg of your blue jeans. Here's how to do it.
When sewing tightly woven linen, use a very small, thin needle. I used a size 10 "Between".
You don't need to iron the folds. Linen is so crisp that you can simply finger press it into place.
Step 1: offset one side of the seam from the other by 3/8". Stitch 1/4" from offset edge, using the smallest running stitch you can manage.
2. On wider edge of the seam, fold seam allowance under 1/4". Fold again toward seam.
Hem folded edge to garment, picking up only one or two threads.
Here's what the finished seam looks like on the right side:
See, that's not so hard!